Off The Beaten Track
Identifying the capital's less well-known sights
of interest, hidden corners, and best kept secrets...
Sir John Soane's Museum, Holborn
This treasure-trove is one of London's best kept
secrets. A short walk from Lincoln's Inn and Holbon
tube, this nondescript Georgian terrace houses a
fascinatingly bizarre collection of objects collected
on the travels of Sir John and his wife in the late
18th century.
With a love of art and antiquity - and the funds and
connections to secure precious items - Sir John collected
original statues and ancient artefacts from Italy
and Egypt, paintings by Hogarth and Canaletto, and
an eclectic range of other treasures that often defy
description. The museum itself is an attraction,
with converted cellars, 'secret' rooms, sliding panels,
and the mysterious 'Monk's Cellar'.
Lincoln's Inn Fields; free. Visit www.soane.org
for details. Holborn tube.
The British Library
Despite being the UK's most expensive public building
(at a staggering cost of £500 million), the
British Library looks as much like a huge brick supermarket
as anything else. The unremarkable exterior should
not put you off though, as the British Library
features some of the world's great printed treasures.
The most important of the Library's attractions include
the richly illustrated Lindisfarne Gospels, ancient
papyrus scrolls from the Holy Land that are some
of the earliest biblical texts, original Shakespearean
folios, works of Beethoven and Mozart, the Magna
Carta, ancient Indian and Arab artwork and texts,
and letters from such luminaries as Henry VIII
and Lord Nelson. Touch screens allow you to 'virtually'
turn pages and zoom in on illustrations.
Special exhibition areas also display ancient and
beautifully illustrated maps from around the world
- Nazi war maps, fanciful medieval charts, maps produced
for various emperors and kings - presented with a
fascinating historical commentary. The massive King's
Library (containing thousands of books collected by
King George III) is also well worth a visit.
96 Euston Road; free. Visit www.bl.uk
for detail. Kings Cross or Euston tubes.
Ham House, Richmond
Boasting one of the best-preserved 17th century
interiors in the UK and an enviable riverside
location upstream from Richmond, Ham House is
well worth the 20 minute walk from Richmond pier.
Once the home of the influential Duke of Lauderdale
and the popular Countess of Dysart, Ham House continued
to flourish despite the political and social storms
of the 17th century. Gifted in this century to the
National Trust, the House also features a formal
garden, shop, and cafe.
Tip: Rather than enter through the main door
to the house, turn right on coming through the main
gates, enter what used to be the stables and visit
the video room, where an interesting 10 minute video
explains the history of Ham House and its once-important
inhabitants. From there you can explore the garden
before entering the richly decorated house.
Tube: Richmond, then 20 minute walk beside
the Thames to Ham or bus #371.
Boat trips from Westminster Pier will take
you on a fascinating 2-2.5 hour cruise to Richmond
for not much more than a fiver. Ring Westminster
Passenger Services on 020 7930 4721 for sailing times
and details. N.B. Your Travel Card entitles you to
a 33% discount - make sure you ask!
Opening Times: Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun 11am-5.30pm.
Price: £6, incl. gardens.
More Information: Ham
House.
The Wellington Arch, Hyde Park Corner
The Wellington Arch has been one of the most controversial
pieces of architecture in London throughout its 180-year
existence. The location, design, and adorning
statues (including a massive bronze Duke of Wellington
on horseback that was perched atop the Arch for many
years) all caused great political and public debate
in the nineteenth century.
Repositioned this century at Hyde Park Corner to improve
traffic flow along Constitution Hill, this impressive
Triumphal Arch in the Roman style was originally built
to honour the Duke of Wellington, the great British
general who conquered Napoleon at Waterloo, and
who became Prime Minister of the nation several years
later. Ceremonies and processions often took place
at the Arch or travelled through its gates during
the Victorian era, including the funeral procession
of the Duke of Wellington himself.
As the decades passed, the Arch soon faded from prominence
and a gradual decay set in. The interior of the Arch
contained numerous rooms, and London's smallest police
station operated from there until the 1960's. When
the last inhabitants of the Arch vacated, this historical
curiosity from the glory days of the British Empire
was largely ignored by the city authorities.
In 1999 English Heritage took over custody of the
Arch and began a £2 million pound restoration,
a complicated process that involved the work of several
craftsmen and that was finally completed late last
year. The results are impressive - the massive bronze
chariot that crowns the arch has been painstakingly
restored to its former glory, and the refurbished
interior rooms now house an interesting exhibition
that chronicles the history of the Arch, the Duke
of Wellington, and London itself with the interesting
use of video and sound. There's even a temperature-controlled
pair of the Duke's famous 'Wellington Boots' on display.
The viewing platform at the top of the Arch overlooks
Hyde Park and Buckingham Palace Gardens, and back
at ground level is a small shop. For the lazy modern
tourist, a lift has even been installed.
If you are in the Hyde Park or Piccadilly areas,
it's well worth half an hour of your time and the
£2.50 entrance charge.
Tube: Hyde Park Corner.
More Information: Wellington
Arch
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