Winchester - England's Medieval Capital
One thousand years ago, Winchester rivalled London
in political importance, and it was no less than Alfred
the Great that made it capital of his Wessex kingdom
in the ninth century. Today, the one hour train
journey from London speeds you through rolling fields
and small villages to the sleepy, backwater town which
experienced a decline in status that is all the more
marked for the meteoric rise of former rival London
to world prominence.
Winchester retains vestiges of its former status,
and is a handsome centre of bustling rovincial activity.
The huge, squat Cathedral boasts the longest
nave in Europe, and has a rich interior that belies
the unprepossessing facade. Original thirteenth century
tiling, a water-logged crypt, and the resting place
of Jane Austen are all reasons to step inside.
Most areas of interest in Winchester radiate from
the High Street, and this makes it a town easily explored
on foot. At the top of the High Street, the Great
Hall has a free exhibition explaining its role
in history - from being partially destroyed by Cromwell's
Civil War forces, the venue for one of the 'Bloody
Assizes' of Judge Jeffrey's in 1685, and the location
where Sir Walter Raleigh was staying when news of
his death sentence was delivered. Perhaps most famously,
the Great Hall is the repository for the famed
Round Table of King Arthur (actually dating to
the 14th century), which hangs impressively from one
wall.
Down on the High Street proper, many of the shops
retain their medieval pedigree, and in nearby
streets there are a number of ancient pubs that have
survived the good times and bad in Winchester. A few
minutes walk past the Cathedral is undoubtedly
the best old pub in town - the Wykeham Arms. Located
at 75 Kingsgate Street, the Wykeham Arms is a treasure-trove
of artifacts, tastefully strewn throughout its candlelit
interior. A great place to relax and enjoy the ambience.
The River Itchen runs along the eastern edge of the
town centre, its power harnessed by the City Mill.
This medieval mill is now under the care of the National
Trust, and has in part been converted into a youth
hostel. A stroll beside the small but swiftly flowing
river will take you to the ruins of the 12th century
Wolvesey Castle, beyond which lies the ancient
(and exclusive) Winchester College.
Getting There
Winchester is a great option for a leisurely day
out from London or an overnight stay in one of the
many B&B's. Several trains leave daily from
London Waterloo, with a journey time of 1 hour.
Buses from London take approximately twice that time.
More Information
The Tourist Office is located in the imposing
Guildhall, at the end of the High Road on the Broadway.
Phone 01962 840 5000.
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