Heart of England
It is sadly true that so many Antipodeans (and
- to be fair - Brits as well) seem to believe that
Britain starts and finishes in London. Most would
of course admit that cities such as Bath
and Edinburgh
are worth a visit, but far too many head home without
exploring Britain's beautiful and interesting countryside.
The Country - as opposed to urban Britain - is a different
world; a world of rolling fields, ancient villages,
castles and estates, woodland and wildlife. Of
course the modern world has encroached to varying
degrees in different regions, and the rural idyll
can easily be portrayed through rose-tinted glasses.
But without doubt, areas such as Sussex and Yorkshire
have their own distinctive - and rural - character.
The Country though, can perhaps best be experienced
in the cluster of counties that are often termed 'The
Heart of England'.
The exact boundaries of the 'Heartland' are hard
to define, but we will settle on the swathe of
largely unspoilt countryside that stretches from
Oxford
in the east to Bath
in the west, skirting north along the Welsh border
with Gloucestershire and Herefordshire, and closing
the circle below Birmingham at Stratford-upon-Avon.
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This area encompasses the picturesque hills and
villages of the Cotswalds, the sleepy rural
expanses of Herefordshire and Worcestershire,
'Shakespeare Country' around Warwick and Stratford
(Shakespearean cottage pictured), and the estates
and gardens of Oxfordshire (Stourhead Estate pictured
at top). This swathe of English countryside and market
towns has a rich historic legacy, memorable landscapes,
and enough cosy country pubs to satisfy the thirstiest
traveller.
One of the best ways of exploring this region is to
rent a cottage
as a 'base' to explore surrounding countryside. A
car is also essential in counties where hedge-lined
country lanes are the norm, but driving is relatively
stress-free in a comparatively car-less part of England.
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Herefordshire and Worcestershire in the west are
prime counties for visiting ancient villages and
market towns with their black and white shops
and houses. Historic gems such as the thirteenth century
Stokesay Castle (pictured) and the Dr. Seuss-like
black and white farmstead at Lower Brockhampton
dot the landscape. Market towns such as Hereford,
Worcester, and the well-preserved medieval Ludlow
are key centres of the county economies, and worth
a visit in their own right.
To the south east are the rolling hills and little
stone hamlets of the Cotswalds. Unchanged by the
passing centuries, towns like Stow-On-The-Wold, Lower
Slaughter (pictured), and Chipping Campden are chocolate
box cute, all hanging baskets and medieval cottages.
The winding roads, country pubs, and hedge-lined fields
all add to the 'unspoiled' image, although the reality
is a bit different under the pressure of the summer
tourist onslaught.
Further south, the flat rural expanses of Wiltshire
are well known for their profusion of ancient sites
- most famous of which is Stonehenge (pictured).
Perhaps even more interesting than this overrun tourist
attraction are more remote sites such as the Neolithic
burial mound at West Kennet and the artificial Silbury
Hill. The huge stone circle that surrounds the village
of Avebury is also an outstanding locale, and as it's
possible to have a beer within the circle it must
rate as the most hospitable heritage site in Britain.
An exploration of the 'Heart of England' wouldn't
be complete without a visit to the more genteel
hamlets and estates of Oxfordshire. The impressive
Blenheim Palace (pictured) is probably the most spectacular
of the estates, set in huge landscaped grounds and
with its own lake. Villages such as Black Bournton
and Burford have a well-preserved identity, and a
few miles south are more reminders of ancient Britons
and the communities of the distant past.
More Information
The National
Trust website is a great introduction to many
of England's best preserved landscapes, estates, and
buildings. Membership is cheap when you consider the
hundreds of locations that can be visited with a membership
card - note also that the National Trust has reciprocal
arrangements with other similar organisations, such
as the NZ Historic Places Trust.
Our explorations of Herefordshire and Worcestershire
were undertaken from a National Trust historical cottage
(pictured). Over 300 of these can be hired for holidays.
The Visit
Britain website provides useful general information
for visits to these counties.
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